For more than 2,000 years, invaders have been fighting over glorious Kefalonia. Romans, the Kingdom of Naples, the Venetian Republic, the Ottoman Empire, the French, British and, during the Second World War, the Italians and Germans have all left their mark.
Fortunately, the present settlers - the Greeks themselves and the odd expat - have stoutly resisted the encroachment of mass tourism. So instead of fast-food restaurants you will find charming family-run tavernas that make this island a foodie heaven.
Great forests of pines, cypress and cedars still sweep down the steep hillsides, often ending in cliffs of chalk as white as those at Dover, or in fine shingle and sand beaches, fringing a sea whose warm, sun-reflecting waters are of startling clarity.
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